More Scrap Designing

A scrap top made from thrift store finds.

Random pieces of silk.

Random Discharge Stencils

Blue silk with random commercial and self-designed stencils. Shirt is self-drafted.

No Designing Needed With This Beautiful Panel Print

Vest with Woven Fabric Strips

First a fabric is woven using 1/2 inch strips of fabric and ribbon and trim. It is backed with light weight interfacing and stitched to reinforce.

Detail of woven fabric.

Fabric is cut randomly.

Solid black fabric is placed behind each random piece for accent.

Pieces are arranged on dark grey denim vest and small squares of orange are added for additional accent.     

Detail. Each piece is appliqued using a wide zig zag stitch.

Finished 

Using Scraps to Make Garments

Made a nice little cardigan from a bargain rib knit purchased at SAS in Tucson. Used scraps for trim. Used more scraps to make a T-shirt from some of  my other t-shirts. I serged 2" strips wrong side together. Then pressed all seams in the same direction. Sleeves and neck band are from a leftover piece of cardigan rib knit.

Folkwear French Cheesemaker's Shirt

 Made this night shirt from a luxurious Egyptian cotton from Emmaonesock. The weave of the cotton is either a twill or sateen. I tried to view it through my thread cound magnifying glass but couldn't determine the exact weave. It has a very smooth and soft shine on the surface. Even the selvedges were luxurious with the words egyptian cotton woven in. The extension is a piece of embroidered linen.

Shades of Matisse

Something fun  and bright for summer. Fabric makes me think of Matisse.

Scrap Designing

I save all my scraps that are at least a quarter of a yard. So, there is usually plenty to design new shirts. Sometimes I cut up the pattern to piece a new T and other times I piece the fabric first. Then I lay the pattern on the newly created fabric. I might even change my design once I start. The gray T was changed from the way I originally draped the fabric on my form.

Original Idea

Either  version would work.

Finished T-shirt

 

Sewn by Hand

This T shirt was sewn entirely by hand. I overlapped all seams 1/2 inch and pinned in place. I used a contrasting thread and sewed a double running stitch on all seams. Hems and neckline were sewn with a single running stitch. It took four evenings, watching Netflix to finish this. The green on the lavender is so much more interesting than if I had just run it through the machine with no detail.

The Knit with a Dart and More

I got a bit carried away with channeling Alabama Chanin http://alabamachanin.com/.  After adding a bust dart, adding 1/2 inch to the back below the armseye, and taking out about a 1/2 inch at the front hip line I had a pattern that seemed about right for my friend's new T. I used scraps from several solid shirts I made for myself earlier this season. (I love solid jewel tone shirts in the summer months.) To design my friends shirt I sewed the fabric pieces together first for a color block effect. I then positioned the pattern pieces for the best look. Initially I used the green for the neck band but didn't really like it. I thought it looked like a bowling shirt. Friends said they liked the green so maybe my judgement was off. I went with the peach color anyway. Next I decided to add some contrasting colored circles using a blanket stitch to applique them on. Now, I have a shirt the looks a bit clownish, which was confirmed by another friend. My friends seem to be doing a great job as a focus group - I just need to listen to them. I did achieve my goal to get a good fit for my friend. She said it was the best fit so far.

The Knit Top Uniform

Knit tops with pants or jeans are my standard uniform. I toss in a shirt from time to time but knit is really so easy to sew and wear.

When I feel I really don't need one more knit top in my closet I find a friend who might like one of my creations. The two tops below are the test run for my friend Leighann. She is an apple and I am a pear so my pattern needs some tweaking to fit her. Her arms are so tiny compared to mine. I have a large bust but Leighann tops mine (bad pun). I determined that even a knit for her should have a dart so the next top will have a bust dart.

The fabric has been in my stash for too many years so it was nice to put it to good use.

T Shirts That Combine Fabrics

My favorite design technique involves combining fabrics. With all of last years fabric and a few new pieces I have enough fabric to play around and get some great combinations. I spread the fabric out on my cutting table and look for interesting combinations. Stripes, dots, and solids are a must to pull the combinations together. A good rule of thumb is to aim for at least three different fabrics. I love prints but sometimes the print is overwhelming when used for the body and the sleeves. I tone it down by using solids for sleeves and adding contrasting fabric at the neck edge. I also try to vary the hem edge with a shirt tail finish or some type of curve. 

Scale and color were the deciding factor in this T
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The two main fabrics were purchased together. I added the navy to keep the fabrics from fading into each other. The picture of the hem shows how easy the two fabrics can get lost in each other. I also cut the body on the bias.

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I love ikat prints, but they can be a tad bit busy if used all over. This is a great example of a solid color in the sleeve to tone it down. The white, beige, and charcoal strip was a nice accent to give a little punch to the effect.

Joan's Handspun and Handwoven Fabric

My friend, Joan Ruan spins cotton and weaves. She also teaches all over the world. I get to sew up some of her gorgeous fabric from time to time. The pink vest is mine and the brown is hers. The cotton in the brown vest is all natural colors. The colors are white, green, and several shades of toast. It is amazing that cotton can be grown in these beautiful colors. Be sure to click on the pictures to see just how beautiful the weaving is.

Another Summer of Sewing

I got way too busy last winter to sew and just closed the door on the sewing room. Projects were left wherever they landed when I quit. Now I am ready to get going again in the order I left the unfinished garments.

First a T-shirt from some fabric left over from one of my sister's T made last summer. Hers was made in the entire print. I like mine better with the black sleeves and dotted neckline. I think having limited fabric forces a more creative end result. The polka dot was just sitting there waiting to join the print. I am also partial to a solid sleeve with a busy print. It just tones down the total look.

A few more unfinished projects and then new fabric arriving.

My Sister's New T-Shirt Wardrobe

In August my sister came to visit and we fine tuned the fit on her patterns for T-shirts. We worked out most of the fitting issue, and I finished her wardrobe after she left for home in Montana. She ended up with a vest, a hoodie and ten new T's.