tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-56993220818369281732024-02-06T22:05:53.970-07:00Sebastian DesignsSewing, quilting and other fiber art projects I am working on, with an occasional entry on travel.Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.comBlogger76125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-55688396467829727472018-10-18T19:45:00.001-06:002018-10-18T19:45:13.301-06:00Turquoise, Garnet and Amber Necklace<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-4716236340656771642018-10-18T18:52:00.001-06:002018-10-18T18:52:22.699-06:00More Scrap Designing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A scrap top made from thrift store finds.</div>
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Random pieces of silk.</div>
<br />Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-80988862397039313582018-10-18T18:41:00.002-06:002018-10-18T18:41:41.781-06:00Random Discharge Stencils<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlJUPlN0zMdUtVOaa5m7_u9hU4LESBjD-EynrHAChHFxo9Td241GwOznXZnm7wvqjvurwqasbGvV9x2BGLFrfu460mTVacf78ZjkSh8wETiD-M7weXNEFo6uO-yGCDglJ5S64LVYOD9Cc/s1600/20180630_084503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlJUPlN0zMdUtVOaa5m7_u9hU4LESBjD-EynrHAChHFxo9Td241GwOznXZnm7wvqjvurwqasbGvV9x2BGLFrfu460mTVacf78ZjkSh8wETiD-M7weXNEFo6uO-yGCDglJ5S64LVYOD9Cc/s320/20180630_084503.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Blue silk with random commercial and self-designed stencils. Shirt is self-drafted.</div>
<br />Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-29042680890417487522018-10-18T18:35:00.001-06:002018-10-18T18:35:34.596-06:00No Designing Needed With This Beautiful Panel Print<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-37951571054173407042018-10-18T18:29:00.000-06:002018-10-18T18:29:10.362-06:00Vest with Woven Fabric Strips<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA3VmsJhDhatmmGUxN0qemIT77xQtC2kBOb_rypv42f8kKgVrH_7e-bx3171FcdZJILig8Vpb28XAJM7g2Hzx-kUjz_x4oMcBeBNCqbCP9OdtSOLiaj74iKphZ67HPQOrqqpQ8Rq9LVvQ/s1600/20180513_193333.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="778" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA3VmsJhDhatmmGUxN0qemIT77xQtC2kBOb_rypv42f8kKgVrH_7e-bx3171FcdZJILig8Vpb28XAJM7g2Hzx-kUjz_x4oMcBeBNCqbCP9OdtSOLiaj74iKphZ67HPQOrqqpQ8Rq9LVvQ/s320/20180513_193333.jpg" width="155" /></a></div>
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First a fabric is woven using 1/2 inch strips of fabric and ribbon and trim. It is backed with light weight interfacing and stitched to reinforce.</div>
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Detail of woven fabric.</div>
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Fabric is cut randomly.</div>
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Solid black fabric is placed behind each random piece for accent.</div>
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Pieces are arranged on dark grey denim vest and small squares of orange are added for additional accent. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDUilv0q1OoIqfyX_7KlZ3EiyMbxbboo0ueUaKpmCJup0yv_dxqyhcanAWgN3GPRFdXako3g1qiewzEWvF6twMhgXRxjb1FKYljsa5vQwnyeFVA_2roVTDjiWWTNpKOagznzZW5sGo33k/s1600/20180502_141501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="778" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDUilv0q1OoIqfyX_7KlZ3EiyMbxbboo0ueUaKpmCJup0yv_dxqyhcanAWgN3GPRFdXako3g1qiewzEWvF6twMhgXRxjb1FKYljsa5vQwnyeFVA_2roVTDjiWWTNpKOagznzZW5sGo33k/s320/20180502_141501.jpg" width="155" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh93YYtvNSnwGPXO2lBeWALUxNG-ynm73Uil7x2trx4xjfbhcFAA86IHlYvHrmk00FCrlC79uldGpOvsjHqo0Fc7tEukCt_iS359PmRhEBmIQntXqnkVJOvf9r9DzrQGYhL8vc2SzKBGpk/s1600/20180415_171112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh93YYtvNSnwGPXO2lBeWALUxNG-ynm73Uil7x2trx4xjfbhcFAA86IHlYvHrmk00FCrlC79uldGpOvsjHqo0Fc7tEukCt_iS359PmRhEBmIQntXqnkVJOvf9r9DzrQGYhL8vc2SzKBGpk/s320/20180415_171112.jpg" width="318" /></a></div>
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Detail. Each piece is appliqued using a wide zig zag stitch.</div>
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Finished </div>
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<br />Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-89169559819067950582017-08-12T15:08:00.002-06:002017-08-28T08:18:03.224-06:00Designing a T Shirt with Multiple FabricsThere are many reasons for using more than one fabric in a garment. If you have never combined fabrics before here are some reasons to do so.<br />
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<li>Garment is more interesting and unique</li>
<li>Challenges your creativity</li>
<li>Challenges your sewing ability</li>
<li>Keeps boredom out of your sewing</li>
<li>Uses up leftover fabric</li>
<li>Gives you a signature look</li>
<li>Discover new color and pattern combinations</li>
<li>Some prints are too strong to use by themselves</li>
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There are many ways to approach designing with multiple fabrics. Once you become familiar with the different approaches to designing with different fabrics you will move freely from one approach to another. No one approach is better than another. All are equal and can be combined for maximum creativity. </div>
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Before you begin you need some fabric to work with. This is the beginning of the design phase and how you acquire the fabric is part of the design process. You should have some big scraps in your stash that are not really big enough to make a full T shirt but just too pretty throw away. This is an opportunity to look at the color ways that you have been following for awhile. If you don't see any color patterns emerging from your scraps it may mean you don't have enough scraps or you are too eclectic in choosing your colors. Just keep collecting and saving fabric.<br />
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While you are building a workable stash you can purchase coordinating fabrics. It is not too difficult to find two fabric that go together but finding three or more can be challenging. One way to get around this is to add a solid, a strip, or polka dot fabric. Solids, stripes, and dots are wonderful bridging fabrics. Often a first attempt is a beautiful print for the body and black or other dark color for the sleeves.<br />
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How much fabric should you buy? For a T shirt from one piece of fabric I buy 1 1/2 yards because I always make long sleeves and sometimes make a shirt a bit longer than normal. 1 1/2 yards allows for some nice size scraps to save. If you find three coordinating fabrics you could start with 1 yard each, but this is costly and leaves a lot of waste for one shirt. A better solution is to buy 3/4 - 1 yard for the body and 1/2 yard of the other two fabrics. Don't forget to check your stash to see if something you have been saving will go with a newly purchased piece. <br />
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If you are not sure which piece to use for the body follow this guide line. The bolder, larger print or pattern is best for the body. When you have no plan in mind but want to start a fabric stash just buy 1/2 yard pieces. The advantages to buying 1/2 yard pieces are lower cost, and you will be forced to be really creative. I rarely buy less than 1/2 yard pieces for several reasons. Many online companies will not cut less than 1/2 yard. Cuts less than 1/2 yard are often skewed and hard to use, especially if they come off the end of the bolt. Patterns with a long repeat don't allow enough of the pattern for strategic placement of pattern pieces.<br />
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Sources for fabrics are where ever you can find them. When I first started making knit garments I lived in southern California and had a store in my town that bought knit fabric from jobbers in Los Angeles. Many of the fabrics were from high end designers so I was very spoiled with both the selection and pricing. I could also easily drive to Los Angeles and shop the fabric district. If you are lucky enough to live near Los Angeles or New York you have access to wonderful garment and fabric districts. Sewing exposes are another great source for fabric but are once a year events.<br />
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When I moved to rural New Mexico I had to use my energy and creativity to find other sources for fabric. I found one outlet in Tucson and Phoenix but these were three and five hour drives for just so so fabric. Over time I learned to shop the internet. If you have a good knowledge of fabric you will soon learn to shop without the need to touch the fabric. You will make some mistakes but in a very short time you should be able to make purchases with confidence. The online stores I use have developed their own unique way to market fabric.<br />
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Once you have a nice collection of knit fabric, you may begin to look at combinations. You will need a vertical design board to move the fabric around. Fabric will look different if you lay it out on a cutting table. Experiment by arranging related pieces side by side, exposing larger or smaller areas of fabric to see what is pleasing to the eye. </div>
Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-14734972410623924412017-08-12T15:02:00.002-06:002017-08-28T08:18:44.606-06:00Drafting a Yoke On a Darted Pants Pattern<div style="text-align: justify;">
For years I have been making elastic waist pants, but decided I wanted a smoother look. I wear my tops on the outside of pants but feel there is excess bulk with the elastic waist. I have a skinny leg pant with a yoke and with fabrics with high spandex percentage I can make them minus the zipper and pull them on. My wider leg pattern is darted with a waist band and traditional fly front. The yoke style is more comfortable so I converted the darted pattern to a yoke pattern.</div>
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First, mark the yoke depth at the side seam and center seams. Trace around the pattern, including all markings. At center front (back) trace across waist from the side seam to the first leg of the dart. On the side seam trace up to the marking for the yoke depth.</div>
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Next, using your pencil tip or a pin at the dart apex pivot the dart to a closed position. Continue tracing from the closed dart around the waist and down to the point on the side seam where the yoke ends.<br />
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I used blue for the yoke and green for the pants. You will need to smooth the lines with a curved ruler.<br />
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Add the appropriate seam allowance to the bottom of the yoke and the top of the pants.</div>
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Using a separate piece of paper trace the yoke and label it. Once you cut out the yoke you can cut out the pants, ignoring the yoke markings or you can trace the pants also and save the draft. </div>
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The final step is to walk the new seam lines and true the edges at the side seams only. Mark one notch in front and two notches in back to line up the yoke and pants seams. </div>
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You can either cut the yoke as one piece placing CF on the fold or cut two pieces and seam the centers. It depends on whether you will be adding a zipper or not. With stretchy fabric these pants can be pull ons. I like to use an invisible zipper at the side seam when needed. </div>
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Cut a facing for the yoke to finish. </div>
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<br />Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-2256800143092077312016-10-27T17:14:00.001-06:002016-10-27T17:14:43.142-06:00Using Scraps to Make Garments<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHqjbUaedU0o8e2frLhLB3WH1IjiM_806bGY5AAt1D-Egr0KVfyXU4LqDrUS244MorbRZ6jNrivi14h_Wz0pvj0BLlbpruJDwkCW3-qF0MzbqLXy5hTEKb6GLGIgg2-QZTu1O7UtWOXmA/s1600/20161011_092300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHqjbUaedU0o8e2frLhLB3WH1IjiM_806bGY5AAt1D-Egr0KVfyXU4LqDrUS244MorbRZ6jNrivi14h_Wz0pvj0BLlbpruJDwkCW3-qF0MzbqLXy5hTEKb6GLGIgg2-QZTu1O7UtWOXmA/s320/20161011_092300.jpg" width="180" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_V35E5XYwAi3xJF0idnvL1baHL_vGjMku9KwYEjZeAJ6hm0wvexgTiEMJ84ON4qLxTERh0XLJxWsqtjFmy8vPysq7OEqtt0rpG6DnwX-da-G4HOWKLSHbFDK4O6-NZDMINf9Si5AmTkA/s1600/20161011_092343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_V35E5XYwAi3xJF0idnvL1baHL_vGjMku9KwYEjZeAJ6hm0wvexgTiEMJ84ON4qLxTERh0XLJxWsqtjFmy8vPysq7OEqtt0rpG6DnwX-da-G4HOWKLSHbFDK4O6-NZDMINf9Si5AmTkA/s320/20161011_092343.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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Made a nice little cardigan from a bargain rib knit purchased at SAS in Tucson. Used scraps for trim. Used more scraps to make a T-shirt from some of my other t-shirts. I serged 2" strips wrong side together. Then pressed all seams in the same direction. Sleeves and neck band are from a leftover piece of cardigan rib knit.</div>
<br />Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-78849376980659732682016-09-07T18:51:00.000-06:002016-09-07T18:51:28.077-06:00Folkwear French Cheesemaker's Shirt Made this night shirt from a luxurious Egyptian cotton from Emmaonesock. The weave of the cotton is either a twill or sateen. I tried to view it through my thread cound magnifying glass but couldn't determine the exact weave. It has a very smooth and soft shine on the surface. Even the selvedges were luxurious with the words egyptian cotton woven in. The extension is a piece of embroidered linen.<br />
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Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-64294862392893230022016-09-06T18:13:00.000-06:002016-09-06T19:07:13.174-06:00Fly Zipper tutorialMaking a fly zipper involves a number of steps but is worth the effort. These instructions are for a woman's fly front. Please note that I mixed up the fly placket and fly facing. I was concentrating on the photography and steps to make the instructions clear. To keep the two straight remember the fly placket goes on the left and is folded in half. The fly facing is cut single and is curved at the bottom.<br />
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<u>All seams allowances are 1/2 inch</u>. Use a zipper foot to attach all pieces. Add a 1/2 inch extension to the left side of the the front leg when you cut out your pattern. Extension should measure 1 inch longer that zipper. Serge both sides of front crotch seams, including the extension.<br />
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Sew crotch seam to pin and back stitch.</div>
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Cut a fly placket and fly facing. Placket is on the left and facing is on the right. To make placket cut fabric 4 inches x the length of the zipper. Fold the fly placket lengthwise and serge the edges as shown. Cut the fly facing 2 inches x the length of the zipper. Round the bottom and serge edges as shown.</div>
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Place the zipper on the fly placket and sew on the tape closest to the serged edge.</div>
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Fold the extension on the left pant leg under 1/2 inch. This allows the zipper to sit back so it is not exposed when completed. Place the folded extension on top of the zipper and placket. Top stitch all pieces together. Stitch all the way to the end of the zipper</div>
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Fold the placket and zipper out of the way of the right hand seam.</div>
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Place the fly facing on the right pant side (right sides together) matching the seam edge and sew 1/2 inch seam allowance to pin and back tack.</div>
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Turn fly facing to inside of pant.</div>
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On the wrong side of fabric fold the fly placket out of the way and pin to secure while sewing the zipper to the fly facing. You will not be sewing the zipper to the pant front until the next step. You can press the fly facing to the inside at this step.</div>
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Sew the zipper to the fly facing only.</div>
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Match the center fronts and pin to secure. Keep the fly placket pinned out of the way.</div>
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Sew 1 inch from center front to about 1 inch before end of zipper.</div>
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Unpin fly placket and place it over zipper. Sew a curved seam from seam opening to previous seam, overlapping stitches. </div>
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Finished fly front.</div>
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<br />Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-14182785935572128632016-07-22T08:20:00.003-06:002016-07-22T08:23:27.432-06:00Shades of Matisse <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Something fun and bright for summer. Fabric makes me think of Matisse.</div>
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<br />Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-2331393089104516652016-07-22T08:14:00.000-06:002016-07-22T08:14:43.943-06:00Improving Your Quilting Skills<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b>Improving Your Quilting Skills<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>By Donna Sebastian</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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My first quilt was a round robin friendship quilt. We all
had the same instructions so our blocks should have matched. Sadly, when I
began to assemble the quilt I discovered some blocks were off by as much as ½
inch. Blocks that were too big could be trimmed down but the odd assortment of
sizes created a challenge to assemble. I struggled through and managed to put
it together, but a lesson was learned. Blocks really need to be all one size.
It took many more years to piece together enough information to allow me to
approach quilting with the accuracy I wanted.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><i>The Quilter</i></b><o:p></o:p></div>
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Many variables contribute to piecing a quilt accurately. The
first variable is you the individual. Just how accurate do you want to be? I
know quilters who literally count the number of machine stitches per seam.
Others count the threads in the fabric. Another quilter I met used magic
markers to touch up seams that showed through the fabric. These are extreme
examples of perfecting a quilt project and you may or may not fit in this category.
If you want this level of accuracy, be prepared to really work hard and above
all learn as much as you can. Most of us will probably be happy with a little
less attention to detail. As you make more quilts, your goals may change also.
Before you begin quilting, decide just where you are on the continuum of
accuracy and accept your abilities at that point. You may find that over time
you become more demanding of yourself, but always accept where you are now. Finally,
never ever point out your flaws or make excuses for your work. When your
admirers praise your efforts, learn to say thank you, I really enjoyed working
on this.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><i>The Fabric</i></b><o:p></o:p></div>
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Understanding and choosing fabric is the first step once you
have accepted your role in the quilting process. Not all fabric is equal.
Another of my first projects was a quilted bargello jacket. The shop owner who
taught the class was, of course interested in selling as much fabric as
possible for the project. Because her shop was new and not well stocked, I
found the selection insufficient for what I thought I wanted. I raided my
garment stash, bought other fabric very unsuitable for quilting just to get the
colors I wanted. This resulted in a lot of frustration on my part when I
assembled the quilt sections. Another lesson learned, stick with one hundred
percent cotton when starting out. <o:p></o:p></div>
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This is what you can expect if you buy one hundred percent
cotton. Some fabric will be heavier or denser than other fabric. Some fabric is
loosely woven and some is tightly woven. Other fabrics will shrink when
laundered. Fabrics will be off grain, especially at the end of the bolt. All of
these factors will affect your accuracy in some way.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Fabric is woven and has properties worth knowing. The long
threads that run with the selvedge are the warp threads. These threads tend to
have very little stretch. The threads that run perpendicular to the selvedge
are called the weft. These threads will tend to stretch when handled. You can
test this by holding a piece of fabric and pulling along each direction of the
weave to see which has more give or stretch. Fabric can stretch when cut, sewn
and pressed. The selvedge edge may draw up tighter than the fabric itself,
especially if you launder the fabric. You may not even notice it until you
begin to cut the fabric. To eliminate problems with the selvedge trim it off
before working with your fabric. We will talk about how to tame the stretch and
shrinking of fabric later. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><i>Rulers and Measuring</i></b><o:p></o:p></div>
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A basic fact of measuring and cutting – the smaller the
piece cut the more accurate you need to be.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Not all rulers are created equal. Before talking about rulers
and measuring let us do a little experiment. You will need a ruler, a pencil, a
sheet of paper, and a cutting device, either scissors or rotary cutter. <o:p></o:p></div>
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First draw a 2 inch square using the ruler. Label this
square #1<o:p></o:p></div>
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Cut out the square. Be as accurate as you can.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Using square #1 trace a second square and cut it out. Label
it #2.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Using square #2 trace a third square and cut it out. Label
it #3.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Continue until you have 6 squares total. Always use the last
square cut as your template for the next square.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Now place the #1 square on top of the #6 square. Are they
identical or are they way off in size?<o:p></o:p></div>
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You have just experience the phenomena of compounding
errors. Understanding rulers, measuring, and cutting can minimize this problem.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Rulers:</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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A basic set of starter rulers:<o:p></o:p></div>
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6 inch X 24 inch quilting ruler<o:p></o:p></div>
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6 inch X 12 inch quilting ruler<o:p></o:p></div>
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2 inch X 18 inch C-Thru ruler<o:p></o:p></div>
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Rulers are slippery so you will want to put a nonslip
backing on all rulers. Quilt stores have materials that can be cut to size and
adhered to the ruler. A do-it-yourself option is to cut ½ inch circles from
fine grit sandpaper and glue them on about 6 inches apart with contact cement.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Quilt rulers and grids on cutting boards are wonderful for
cutting but are not very good for accurate measuring. The thickness that makes
them so wonderful for cutting distorts the line you are looking at for
measuring. The other problem is the thickness of the line on the ruler. Do you
cut to the right or the left or somewhere in the middle of the line? It is best
if you try to use the center point of the line. A better ruler for measuring is
a 2 inch X 18 inch ruler by C-Thru. These rulers are the ones to use for making
templates, checking for accuracy, especially on small piecing. You will also
want to use a .5 mechanical pencil to ensure consistency in the line width.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Many rulers start at the exact edge. Over time, the corners
of the ruler can become worn or nicked. To measure a 2 inch line, place the 1
inch point of the ruler on the material and mark the 3 inch point. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Templates:</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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To make a template or anything else you will be tracing you
will want to be consistent in how you hold the pencil. If you hold the pencil
at a 90 degree angle to the paper along the side of the ruler the line may be
off. It is better to hold the pencil at a 45 degree angle against the edge of
the ruler. This undercut will be more accurate<o:p></o:p></div>
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A final word on measuring – rulers are only half of the
equation. The eye of the individual is the other half. Some people have a
better eye for detail than others. You can train your eye to see more
accurately. The more you practice the better your eye for accuracy will become.
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<b><i>Cutting</i></b><o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Rules for cutting:</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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Measure twice, cut once<o:p></o:p></div>
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Never cut when you are tired<o:p></o:p></div>
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Never cut with a dull blade<o:p></o:p></div>
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Always cut off the black line <o:p></o:p></div>
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You may cut with scissors or a rotary cutter. We will only
talk about cutting with a rotary blade. Blades come in various sizes. The ideal
blade size is the quarter size blade. They are cheaper so you will be more
inclined to use a fresh blade when the old one becomes dull. The smaller size
blade is more stable than the larger blades. The larger blades tend to wobble
when you put pressure on them. This creates uneven wear and dulls the blade
faster.<o:p></o:p></div>
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You will want to cut with the fabric and ruler lined up so
that you are cutting away from your body. This will be easy if you are cutting
stripes. You just move the ruler over and cut another strip. Sometimes you will
be cutting in several directions. Do not pick up the fabric to reposition for
the second cut. Instead, have the fabric on a cutting board and turn the board
to the position you need for cutting. When you pick the fabric up it can become
distorted when you put it back on the cutting board.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Use the ruler sized for the cut you are making. Use large
ruler for large cuts and small ruler for small cuts. Place your hand flat on
the ruler with your fingers splayed out like an octopus to anchor the ruler. Pick
up your hand and move it forward as you cut so that the section you are cutting
is always opposite the hand anchoring the ruler. You may also place your
forearm on the ruler to gain more distance when cutting long pieces. Try to cut
only the length of the ruler. If your cut is longer than the ruler move the
ruler, so that at least half of the ruler is lined up with the cut section. If
you are having trouble cutting a folded piece of fabric open the fabric and cut
one long strip. You must be extra careful when cutting a fold that the cut line
is exactly perpendicular to the fold. To see what happens when your cut is not
perpendicular fold a piece of paper in half and cut a slightly angled line from
the fold. Open the paper to see the distortion. For the best accuracy hold the
rotary cutter at a slight angle against the ruler, the same as you did with the
pencil. You will be making a slight undercut.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If you suspect the blade is skipping it is time for a new
blade. For best results you want to make one cut only. Once the cut is made,
keep the ruler in place and gently move the scrap section away. This is the
time to discover any skipped sections and correct them and change the blade.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When you are cutting a pattern or template it is important
to <u>cut away all of the black line</u>. When you make the template, the ruler
should be on the inside of the template and the line drawn to the outside of
the template. No matter how skinny the line is it has thickness and will add
size to the final cut.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i>Sewing </i></b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You have done everything so far to the best of your ability,
so what could go wrong now? Your fabric will now be subjected to handling and
manipulating that can undo all your best efforts of measuring and cutting. Rule
# 1 – <u>Handle the fabric as little as possible.<o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>The sewing machine:</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The sewing machine can be a brutal force in distorting your
beautiful block. You line up the edges and set them under the pressure foot and
sew away, only to discover that the opposite ends no longer meet. Home sewing
machines are really bad at feeding the top and bottom fabrics unevenly as they
sew. One remedy is to use a walking foot. Unfortunately, you must now eyeball
the quarter inch seam allowance or put a piece of tape on the throat plate of
your sewing machine. The sewing machine is not the only factor in misaligned
seams. Remember all those fabric characteristics we talked about? Fabric that
tends to stretch will tend to stretch more as it goes through the sewing
machine. If you have a stretchy piece and a stable piece of fabric you will
want to put the stable piece on top whenever possible to minimize stretching.
Stretch comes from having a cut edge on the weft (selvedge to selvedge). It can
also occur when triangles are cut. You now have a bias edge that can be really
stretchy. Again, try to sew with a stable fabric on top and use a walking foot.
If this is not possible or you find it too difficult to manage then starching
the fabric will create a stiffness like paper that will keep the edges more
stable. Basting is always an option and preferable to pinning. Basting is
underrated and nothing to shy away from. It can be a really fast and effective
way to tame a difficult situation.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Pins:</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sewing with pins will hinder your progress and cause more
problems than they solve. Pins can nick your needle, distort the seam, and slow
your progress. Pins do not work well with ¼ inch presser feet or walking feet. The
best seam is one that is sewn in one long continuous motion with the least
amount of handling the fabric. Learning to sew without pins is liberating and
builds confidence. Confident quilters do the best work. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Sewing the seam:</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
To actually sew the seam line up the top edges, place under
pressure foot and sew a few stitches. Stop and line up the bottom edges and
hold them firmly together as you complete the seam. You may hold the fabric
with just a wee bit of tension as you sew. Tension is not the same as
stretching the fabric.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There are several ways to sew a ¼ inch seam. Whichever
method you use always make a sample and measure for accuracy before proceeding.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Many machines have a line marking the ¼ inch line. Line up
your fabric and sew a test seam. Press the seam flat and measure with the
C-Thru ruler.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Measure out from the needle hole ¼ inch and place a strip of
masking tape on the throat plate. The piece of tape should extend about 4 – 6
inches towards you and be perpendicular to the left to right edges of the
throat plate. When sewing the seam you should be lining up the fabric several
inches in front of the needle and presser foot. It is too late to line up once
the fabric reaches the needle.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Use a ¼ inch presser foot. These special feet have a guide
that keeps the fabric within the seam allowance. The guide can be a hindrance
when joining seamed pieces together. You may need to stop and raise the presser
foot before feeding the fabric through. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Remember, there is only one measurement for ¼ inch. There is
no measurement for a scant ¼ inch. It either is ¼ or not. It is not worth the
effort to try to figure out how big or little a scant is.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Stitch length:</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The preset stitch length is generally the one to use. If you
are finding that you rip out a lot of seams you may increase the stitch length.
This makes it easier to take out stitches. As you improve you can go back to
the preset stitch length. Occasionally, you may want a shorter stitch length
for more precision work such as curves or really small pieces. Paper piecing
also requires a shorter stitch lengthen. Shorter stitch lengths may cause the
fabric to draw up making the seam length shorter. Make a 6 inch sample seam,
press it flat and measure before using the shorter stitch length.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Things are going along smoothly but you decide something
needs to be ripped out. This will also distort the seam edge. The best way to
rip is to cut the top thread at one inch intervals. Then gently pull the bottom
(bobbin) thread.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><b>Pressing</b></i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Fact or myth about pressing – Never use steam when pressing a
seam. This is definitely a myth. Fabric is fabric whether you are making
garments or making a quilt. Correct pressing is important in all types of
sewing. The same principals apply in all fabric pressing. To press a seam you
place the iron on the seam and hold the iron in place. If you use steam, you
allow the fabric to dry before handling. You do not move the iron back and
forth. This will stretch the fabric. Most of the time, a hot, dry iron works. A
dry iron works when the fabric is thinner and both pieces are the same weight. Heavier
fabrics such as Kona cotton do not always respond to a dry iron and need the
added boost of a shot of steam. The goal in pressing is to have the flattest
seam possible. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Steps for pressing a seam:</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
With the seam still flat (not open) press to set the threads
in the fabric. Do this on both sides of the two sewn quilt pieces.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Open the two pieces and finger press the seam to one side.
Usually this is the side towards the darker fabric. To finger press either
pinch the fabric between your fingers or lay the fabric on a flat surface and
press with your fingers.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
With the fabric face up press the seam flat with the iron.
By having the fabric face up you can see if a small pleat is formed at the seam
edge before you do the final pressing. If the padding on your ironing board
seams too soft and the seam isn’t flat enough then you should press on a piece
of wood covered with a press cloth.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Always do a test pressing to determine if you need steam or
not.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If you used steam, set the piece aside to dry before using. The
time to dry depends on your climate, dry or humid, and the amount of steam
used.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i>Fudging </i></b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
No matter how good you are there will come a day when things
just do not fit. You can rip, take a break, or toss the project as hopeless.
This day happens to the best quilters and is addressed with some simple fixes
that throw out the rules. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The most common problem is the seam that does not match from
end to end. You do not want to cut another piece because you do not know which
piece is in error or you do not have enough fabric to cut another piece. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Fudging techniques:</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Longer seams have more wiggle room. First, measure each
piece and correct by cutting if one seam is too long. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When one seam is too short you can stretch it to fit the
correctly cut seam. Sew with the short seam on top and stretch as you sew. Then press with steam to set the fibers.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In extreme cases when the cut is too short and there is no
more fabric to recut, you can wet the fabric and stretch it to the desired size
using your iron to set the threads. I heard a nationally known quilter openly
admit to doing this on her award winning quilt.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You have carefully measured, cut, and sewn a 12 inch block
with multiple pieces and the finished block does not measure 12 inches. After
pressing it flat you can use a template to trim and true it up. You can also
use a steam iron and stretch it to size. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You discover a tiny pleat on one piece. Open the seam
several inches and stretch the shorter piece to match the longer piece that had
the pleat. If the pleat is near an edge, open the seam, re-sew and trim the
excess.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-30924416312277018662015-10-19T17:17:00.000-06:002018-10-18T18:48:52.786-06:00Scrap DesigningI save all my scraps that are at least a quarter of a yard. So, there is usually plenty to design new shirts. Sometimes I cut up the pattern to piece a new T and other times I piece the fabric first. Then I lay the pattern on the newly created fabric. I might even change my design once I start. The gray T was changed from the way I originally draped the fabric on my form.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuuqewnrsClavn71bsSb8ThLNT-jysOzO9QoPpUdLr8uCzUnicsGqy6UaIL6M1RG0Z3kBFdOdD3tlIeAiAdvlQ8ODvQosW4hZslpmJ9TebP3jJzgXCbbPy0VqtmoU2mE82R_Tt1BGoMPo/s1600/20150802_085803.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuuqewnrsClavn71bsSb8ThLNT-jysOzO9QoPpUdLr8uCzUnicsGqy6UaIL6M1RG0Z3kBFdOdD3tlIeAiAdvlQ8ODvQosW4hZslpmJ9TebP3jJzgXCbbPy0VqtmoU2mE82R_Tt1BGoMPo/s320/20150802_085803.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original Idea<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
Either version would work.</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmRkycTlN7ugNcScZLvJvZlWPhF2yS1vsTyiW01k97c1Fyq4ZQBWeLpZ9HXhs9x9yjOyrpn8gHtDPCDT08qIx8r5Cj1RwIWDxJ0qwqI3de7zbicF41hs5syDg2ui2NHtpB4SJJggiKT3Y/s1600/20151019_165137.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmRkycTlN7ugNcScZLvJvZlWPhF2yS1vsTyiW01k97c1Fyq4ZQBWeLpZ9HXhs9x9yjOyrpn8gHtDPCDT08qIx8r5Cj1RwIWDxJ0qwqI3de7zbicF41hs5syDg2ui2NHtpB4SJJggiKT3Y/s320/20151019_165137.png" width="227" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished T-shirt<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv5hTmi2NpwnGOg1Pdxc5yuB0myz_V7Rp0610pezfJxYKI9IE4hAVwXv_LIKTNabNWyLHtVtsQ3eJPiTkONdCrc349lffq-7w6mJjxl34fdZLVFNQEJSHE7hRLNzpeFrLpiu4ICh60-sE/s1600/20151019_165229.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv5hTmi2NpwnGOg1Pdxc5yuB0myz_V7Rp0610pezfJxYKI9IE4hAVwXv_LIKTNabNWyLHtVtsQ3eJPiTkONdCrc349lffq-7w6mJjxl34fdZLVFNQEJSHE7hRLNzpeFrLpiu4ICh60-sE/s320/20151019_165229.png" width="241" /></a><br />
<br />Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-32187059894694933952015-08-03T17:18:00.000-06:002015-08-04T09:43:01.865-06:00Sewn by HandThis T shirt was sewn entirely by hand. I overlapped all seams 1/2 inch and pinned in place. I used a contrasting thread and sewed a double running stitch on all seams. Hems and neckline were sewn with a single running stitch. It took four evenings, watching Netflix to finish this. The green on the lavender is so much more interesting than if I had just run it through the machine with no detail.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-12384356682623809472015-08-03T16:59:00.000-06:002015-08-03T16:59:04.528-06:00The Knit with a Dart and MoreI got a bit carried away with channeling Alabama Chanin<a href="http://alabamachanin.com/" target="_blank"> http://alabamachanin.com/</a>. After adding a bust dart, adding 1/2 inch to the back below the armseye, and taking out about a 1/2 inch at the front hip line I had a pattern that seemed about right for my friend's new T. I used scraps from several solid shirts I made for myself earlier this season. (I love solid jewel tone shirts in the summer months.) To design my friends shirt I sewed the fabric pieces together first for a color block effect. I then positioned the pattern pieces for the best look. Initially I used the green for the neck band but didn't really like it. I thought it looked like a bowling shirt. Friends said they liked the green so maybe my judgement was off. I went with the peach color anyway. Next I decided to add some contrasting colored circles using a blanket stitch to applique them on. Now, I have a shirt the looks a bit clownish, which was confirmed by another friend. My friends seem to be doing a great job as a focus group - I just need to listen to them. I did achieve my goal to get a good fit for my friend. She said it was the best fit so far.<br />
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<br />Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-39939369248486527022015-07-09T16:13:00.000-06:002015-07-09T16:19:09.188-06:00The Knit Top UniformKnit tops with pants or jeans are my standard uniform. I toss in a shirt from time to time but knit is really so easy to sew and wear.<br />
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When I feel I really don't need one more knit top in my closet I find a friend who might like one of my creations. The two tops below are the test run for my friend Leighann. She is an apple and I am a pear so my pattern needs some tweaking to fit her. Her arms are so tiny compared to mine. I have a large bust but Leighann tops mine (bad pun). I determined that even a knit for her should have a dart so the next top will have a bust dart.<br />
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The fabric has been in my stash for too many years so it was nice to put it to good use.<br />
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<br />Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-33201415974399523012015-02-09T20:44:00.002-07:002015-07-09T16:26:19.892-06:00A Tribute to Serena<div class="MsoNormal">
Several years into my retirement, I decided I needed a dog.
After much research, I decided to get a German Shepherd Dog. My sister, who has
had many GSDs said, “You know they shed.” I replied, “No problem”. She
repeated, “No, I mean they really shed a lot.” I continued to ignore the
warning and set out to find a GSD. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I decided to go the rescue route and found Westside German
Shepherd Rescue in Los Angeles. I made an appointment and drove to their
facility. The first dog presented to me was an older dog, very docile but just
did not seem to have much spark. Robin said she had another dog that had just
been spayed. We went to the vets and the vet tech said she hated the dog. Misty
was put on a leash and proceeded to race around the block with me attempting to
follow. Robin said, “I think you can handle her.” Several weeks later I called
Westside to let them know how we were doing. The response was, “We thought you
would bring her back within two weeks.” Sorry, I don’t give up that easily.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I am now the owner of a dog who is completely out of
control, showing no signs of being co-operative. She has a whine that is ear
piercing and becomes overly excited at the drop of the hat. I quickly determined
she has no off button. She was on from dawn to dusk. I started looking for
trainers and knew it would take a really skilled trainer to work with me and
newly named, Serena. I found K-9 Companions in Woodcrest. Serena’s trainer was
a no nonsense woman in the military who managed to get Serena on the right
track to becoming a well-behaved dog. She went into training knowing the down
command and came out knowing heel, sit, stay and wait. She never learned the
Come command. It just wasn’t in her. Even with some commands under her belt she
was a handful when walking. Everything distracted her. Anything small and
moving set Serena’s prey instinct in motion. I took her everywhere with me. We
went camping, hiked Mt. Rubidoux, and later in New Mexico we hiked Gomez Peak a
couple of times. I tried to teach her to fetch. I threw grapefruit for her to
bring to me. She would drop them half way, behind me , to my side, that is when
she bothered to bring them to me at all. She could play with her Kong solo,
never sharing. She would toss it, bounce it and run around with it. She knew
toys were not to go outside and would be on a dead run to go out and drop her
Kong just before she hit the door. If
she lost her Kong she could show me where it was three days later. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Serena never met a person she did not like. She greeted
everyone who came to visit me as if they had come to visit her personally. She
got along with some dogs but I never knew which dogs might set her off. If she
spotted another dog while in the car she would bark until we got out of sight.
Her babysitters loved her. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Her hips were bad from the beginning. As she got older, her
hips began to fail her. I got wheels for her and meds to ease the pain. It took
about a week for her to get the hang of walking in her wheels. It helped when
she saw my neighbor (remember she loves people). She would forget she was in
her wheels and begin to run to greet him. <o:p></o:p></div>
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On Monday of this week I left for Tucson for a dental
appointment. Serena stayed home with a babysitter. She was somewhat feisty when
I left so I felt confident she would be fine. The night before I was scheduled
to come home Serena took a turn for the worse. Bree notified me and I got on
the phone to make arrangements and to get my neighbor to help Bree get Serena
into the car. The vet determined that multiple failures where taking place. I
said, “No heroics. Just keep her stable until I get there. She was on oxygen
and an IV but went into cardiac arrest an hour before arrive. As I was driving
up highway 90 I looked out over the mountains and saw a ghost image of Serena
running over the mountains. She ran beside the car and was gone. I will miss
that crazy dog.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-48023401144393498042014-05-31T20:45:00.001-06:002014-05-31T20:51:09.512-06:00T Shirts That Combine Fabrics<div style="text-align: center;">
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<span style="text-align: justify;">My favorite design technique involves combining fabrics. With all of last years fabric and a few new pieces I have enough fabric to play around and get some great combinations. I spread the fabric out on my cutting table and look for interesting combinations. Stripes, dots, and solids are a must to pull the combinations together. A good rule of thumb is to aim for at least three different fabrics. I love prints but sometimes the print is overwhelming when used for the body and the sleeves. I tone it down by using solids for sleeves and adding contrasting fabric at the neck edge. I also try to vary the hem edge with a shirt tail finish or some type of curve. </span></div>
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Scale and color were the deciding factor in this T<br />
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The two main fabrics were purchased together. I added the navy to keep the fabrics from fading into each other. The picture of the hem shows how easy the two fabrics can get lost in each other. I also cut the body on the bias.</div>
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I love ikat prints, but they can be a tad bit busy if used all over. This is a great example of a solid color in the sleeve to tone it down. The white, beige, and charcoal strip was a nice accent to give a little punch to the effect.<br />
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<br />Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-2781515933257939182014-05-21T16:33:00.000-06:002014-05-21T16:43:08.258-06:00Joan's Handspun and Handwoven Fabric My friend, Joan Ruan spins cotton and weaves. She also teaches all over the world. I get to sew up some of her gorgeous fabric from time to time. The pink vest is mine and the brown is hers. The cotton in the brown vest is all natural colors. The colors are white, green, and several shades of toast. It is amazing that cotton can be grown in these beautiful colors. Be sure to click on the pictures to see just how beautiful the weaving is.<br />
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<br />Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-69214510156025261082014-05-16T09:43:00.000-06:002014-05-16T09:47:35.594-06:00Another Summer of SewingI got way too busy last winter to sew and just closed the door on the sewing room. Projects were left wherever they landed when I quit. Now I am ready to get going again in the order I left the unfinished garments.<br />
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First a T-shirt from some fabric left over from one of my sister's T made last summer. Hers was made in the entire print. I like mine better with the black sleeves and dotted neckline. I think having limited fabric forces a more creative end result. The polka dot was just sitting there waiting to join the print. I am also partial to a solid sleeve with a busy print. It just tones down the total look.<br />
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A few more unfinished projects and then new fabric arriving.Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-35984426033313601962014-03-16T12:13:00.000-06:002018-04-26T22:01:57.101-06:00Adventures in Mata Ortiz, Mexico<div style="text-align: justify;">
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I first visited Mata Ortiz with a group in October 2013. With no idea of what to expect I mentally made a decision to, maybe, buy one small pot, but only if I found the right one. Our tour leader suggested that the average person spends about $500. on the first trip. Clearly they didn't know what they were talking about or so I thought. I soon found myself writing checks and wondering how to finance more pots. Not being prepared to purchase all the pots I wanted it was evident I would need to return at some point soon. </div>
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Westen New Mexico University offered a field trip in March 2014. I was the first to sign up and began planning which potters I would add to my collection. Sadly the trip was canceled due to lack of enrollment. A friend was also enrolled and equally disappointed. We had lunch, and I convinced her that we could make the trip on our own.</div>
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Making our reservations was very low tech. First I let the class instructor, Claude know of our plans. He agreed to facilitate the reservations through Spencer McCullum who lives in Casas Grandes and has an El Paso phone number that rings in Casas Grandes. Spencer would then get word to Lalo, the owner of the Posada in Mata Ortiz. With that series of connections we were set to go.</div>
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Once the reservations were confirmed I met with Claude and got recommendations of potters he is familiar with. With maps, lists and books I made a spread sheet of potential potters to visit. I now have a game plan and am ready to do some serious pot buying. I shouldn't mention it yet, but the game plan did not even get up enough momentum to even fall apart. It just didn't happen. But I am getting ahead of myself.</div>
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Our next hurdle was the bureaucracy to get across the border and begin the journey. First a stop in Deming to purchase Mexican automobile insurance, cash or check only. Next the border. Passports in hand along with original automobile title, current registration, driver's license and a friendly buenos dias we patiently waited for the very bored Mexican official to look over our credentials and stamp passports, papers, front and back and wave us on to the next station. Bringing an automobile into Mexico means paying for the privilege and posting a hefty charge on the credit card. This stage of the process involves lots of initials and highlighting of papers before we are given an official sticker to affix to our windshield. Upon leaving Mexico the process is reversed. Photos are taken of the vehicle registration number, the credit card has the deposit reversed, and the sticker is removed but with bits and pieces of it still clinging to the windshield. This sticker was not designed to be removed. The final stamp in our passport lets us exit and be on our merry way back to the states. </div>
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I will skip the paragraph describing the drive down to Mata Ortiz as it is just a drive on a relatively nice two lane highway with very little shoulder. </div>
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We stopped in Casas Grandes to visit Spencer and give him a thank you gift of some chocolate. He graciously offered to show us a local church that had been painted inside by a local artist. Every inch of the walls were painted. It was quite spectacular.</div>
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Back in the car and another ten miles and we are now in Mata Ortiz. Nothing has changed. The village is quiet. I remember the land marks and we drive straight to the Posada. While I am opening the gates a young man next door pokes his head out and asks if Lalo knows we are coming. "Si". We drive in and proceed to unload the car. No one is around. Presently Lalo shows up to let us in our rooms. I take the "suite" this time. It is a large L shaped room with two beds and a couch. No electrical outlets in the bathroom but I can make do. The potters begin to arrive. Tables are soon filled with pots. As more and more potters arrive we tell them we will wait until after dinner to shop.<br />
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I like to think of myself as having an open mind with no real expectations of what our experience will be. I am deluding myself that our present trip will be like the trip in the Fall with a group. There is a certain safety in a group. One can move from table to table of pots with no guilt because someone else will fill in and make a purchase, or you can just mingle and look interested while hiding safely in numbers. Now we are completely exposed as the Americanos who have come to buy pots. We can not hide. It would be rude to hide in our rooms or just sit and pretend they weren't there. I stall by asking, "Como se llama?" and replying with "Me llamo, Donna". I can pick up each and every pot exclaiming how beautiful it is. "Muy bonito". The experience is new to Claudia and she quickly catches "pot fever" and begins to buy, giving me a slight break from my guilt.<br />
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I had big plans of going door to door in search of specific potters but the potters were coming to us in droves. The potters of lesser talent seemed to be the first to appear with the more talented potters coming later. Before each meal they would line up. We had to make it known that we would first eat and then look. This did not prevent them from occasionally poking a head around the corner to make sure we knew they were waiting.<br />
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After breakfast on our first full day we escaped to drive around. I had a map of each barrio and check marks by the potters I hoped to see. I wanted a pot from Leonal Lopez who lived at the far end of Barrio Lopez. We found the road by the river and drove along it, but nothing looked familiar. We passed a group of cowboys hanging out around some pick up trucks and then reached what looked like the end of the Barrio. I turned around and approached the cowboys. A woman came out from the house. I asked, "Donde esta Leonal Lopez?" He was right there with the cowboys, and his house was just across the road. I was elated. He did not have the pot I wanted, but I did buy a lovely "fish" pot in the esgraffito style.<br />
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On our second day, while eating lunch a well dressed woman of great composure entered. I thought she looked like Lydia Quezda but thought, no it can't be. She briefly stood in front of us and left. A gentleman then approached to tell us that yes, indeed that is Lydia. When Lydia enters a room you know a woman of great determination and force has entered. She walks with purpose and does not look to the right or left nor does she acknowledge the other potters. She is wearing a long black skirt and a blazer. Her husband is wearing dress slacks and white shirt. The other potters are in jeans and T's. Everyone says that she rarely comes to the Posada so I was on pins and needles to see her pots. She made an appearance during the Fall trip, but I failed to grab a pot fast enough to purchase. Now I have a second chance. Lydia had two pots to show us, one by her son, Moroni and one by her. I did not hesitate to make my purchase from this woman who carries herself with such dignity and presence. Not only do her pots stand out among the many beautiful pots, but she also, does not fit in with the other potters. I told her my name, and she made a point of letting me know that her son, Moroni is now at the University in Chihuahua. Clearly this is a woman to be reckoned with.<br />
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I now have pots from two of the better known potters of Mata Ortiz. I am satisfied that our trip is a success. Claudia is still making purchases and is easily making the day for some of the lucky potters who have sold to her. </div>
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Jose Martinez invited us to his brightly colored home along the river to watch the firing of pots. We met Susy, his wife and son, Ivan. I purchased a graceful small pot made by Susy. She is distinguishing her pots with delicate etching at the base. </div>
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My final purchase is a figure of a dog by Macario Ortiz. My decision to purchase this piece was to round out my collection with a figure piece. It was whimsical with personality and should you turn it over you will discover that it is anatomically correct.</div>
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Hasta la vista, Mata Ortiz. Two days felt like two weeks.</div>
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Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-73444224105580608452013-12-13T10:37:00.002-07:002013-12-14T13:38:06.848-07:00China - Then and Now - Thirteen Years Later<div style="text-align: justify;">
I first went to China in 2000 in order to see the Yangtze River before the dam was completed. China was still emerging, and the tour included all the major cities and sights. Everything about the tour was highly organized and tightly controlled . I came home with a keen sense of the vastness and beauty of China but little insight into the every day people. The trip was a study of the romantic China and looking back it seems like a Disneyland experience. It was one of my last trips to take film pictures and I filled a shoe box with some really great photos.</div>
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I was content to have seen the China I saw and had little interest in returning as there are so many other places in the world I still need to see. That changed when my only granddaughter, Sydney went to China to teach English. I thought it would be fun to visit her but did no real planning until she mentioned that she lived close to Harbin where the Ice Festival is held. I have seen pictures of the Festival but due to its remoteness I figured it was just a place to enjoy in photos. Now it seemed like a possibility.</div>
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Sydney has winter break at the time of the Festival so my planning began sometime in August. First I checked the weather - minus 30 degrees in January. Oh my, now I have to figure out how to stay warm. I have plenty of long johns and wool sweaters and socks but need to secure better outer wear. Some internet research had me ordering ski pants, Sorrel boots and a really heavy down parka from ebay. I now felt I could move on to the next step and book airlines and two days of hotel before meeting up with Sydney. That done I was now ready to learn a few key phrases so I could at least take a taxi to my hotel. I found audio clips on the internet and managed to learn only three words, hello, thank you and please. </div>
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I got my first glimpse of China before I left the airport in Los Angeles. I flew Air China so many of the passengers were Chinese. Signage indicated that only one carry on allowed with no mention of a personal bag. The weight limit posted was also ridiculously low for a carry on. Soon I noticed an official looking man randomly taking peoples bags as he said Thank You. Wow, I understood Chinese. Because I had a carry on and a personal bag half the size of my carry on I just knew he was going to find me eventually. Close to boarding people started getting up making what looked like a line to board. It was more like a loose mob. No matter how many times the desk attendants said, "Sit down", no one moved. I was never really sure when first class and others finished boarding and economy started. It was just one big flow of people moving forward. This was my introduction to how Chinese quietly defy authority in a small way and yet maintain an orderly flow of movement. China, here I come.</div>
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My plan was to take a taxi to my hotel and rest for a few days. Sydney had other plans for me. She would take the train to Changchun to meet me at the airport and get me to my hotel. I tried to tell her I could manage for a few days but she insisted. Well, I was glad she insisted because trip to hotel involved train and then a taxi in a very confusing atmosphere. Without Sydney's help I would probably still be trying to find my way around the train station.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr5eUJsDqq8K_HyztOYUPnASNM4K5XNUzqHeuQtF2QySGG7RZZN1VvyOaTYPMtlMJfLUEjFzqxhX0e6Ka6azpjHobadPsJf3x0AQVqhyncASXGVh0dEnbtTrvvSH2XC2nt5Pqyi39jKxY/s1600/IMG_0664.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr5eUJsDqq8K_HyztOYUPnASNM4K5XNUzqHeuQtF2QySGG7RZZN1VvyOaTYPMtlMJfLUEjFzqxhX0e6Ka6azpjHobadPsJf3x0AQVqhyncASXGVh0dEnbtTrvvSH2XC2nt5Pqyi39jKxY/s320/IMG_0664.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me at South Lake Hotel</td></tr>
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Five star South Lake Hotel was way south of town and in a beautiful wooded location. The rest of Changchun is considered the Detroit of China. Check in required I put up a 1000 yuan deposit. This is how it is done. Lunch and breakfast hours are limited so Sydney and I scrambled to get some lunch. My breakfast the next morning was another experience. Without asking I was brought an assortment of small dishes, about twelve in all. There was fish, sausage, egg, vegetables, pickled cabbage noodles, all cold. A waiter asked if I wanted noodles so I said yes just in case the small dished turned out to be not to my liking. The second morning I only got the twelve dishes. No one asked if I wanted noodles.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rodin's Balzac in Sculpture Park</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of Changchun from Sculpture Park</td></tr>
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Our first outing was to the world's largest Sculpture Park in the middle of town. I am sure it is better looking in the spring and summer than covered in snow. It was impressive anyway. Next we went to Puiy's Palace and a very large museum dedicated to the Japanese invasion in 1931. The museum was beautiful and the many attendants held signs saying "Quiet". The Chinese suffered greatly during this time period. It can be compared to the Holocaust in Germany.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me standing by Puiy's car</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV9OZl4XU2r3mrDoGgBbPxQB4iw-JivWEWK7RDpi3s5YjmIGqvXX2Vk20hfwRPO1Y4QUMjkbgtL-gWCxctHd-bQAfhh1xQ2cRpzyrDt_c9auFvFT_PEYwQjbssQ9cajhrcFO8uKQ6lBKk/s1600/IMG_0704.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV9OZl4XU2r3mrDoGgBbPxQB4iw-JivWEWK7RDpi3s5YjmIGqvXX2Vk20hfwRPO1Y4QUMjkbgtL-gWCxctHd-bQAfhh1xQ2cRpzyrDt_c9auFvFT_PEYwQjbssQ9cajhrcFO8uKQ6lBKk/s320/IMG_0704.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from train heading to Harbin</td></tr>
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We rest at Sydney's apartment in Siping before proceeding to Harbin. By now I understand Sydney's craving for western food. In general the food is too salty and too much oil. No matter how varied the dishes look there is a sameness in flavor that one tires of. I did like some of the dishes but Chinese food is not one of my favorite cuisines. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scratch my belly</td></tr>
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Nicki, one of Sydney's students joined us in Harbin. Another colleague, Steven meet us at our hotel and made all our arrangements during our stay in Harbin. I am now into the idea of having a taxi or driver whenever we go anywhere. Harbin is the northern most city in China and I am now feeling like I am seeing the "real" China. We do repeated ten minute walks to go places that are closer than a taxi ride. We are schlepping to small hole in the wall eateries. I overlook the dinginess and trust that I will not pick up something and become sick. Sydney's friends know enough Mandarin to order knowledgeable from a menu and can answer questions about the dishes. One evening we trudged over to Steven's apartment and climbed six flights of stairs to enjoy a dinner prepared by Steven. We have a cab and driver to take us to all the sights and wait for us so we don't have to find a cab back to the hotel. One of our drivers, Joe wears aviator sun glasses and a light jacket in spite of below zero temperatures. Joe's English is really good. He learned by watching TV. Joe's father has one of the cleanest taxis around. It is immaculate and had a red light in front that sparkled like an elaborate Christmas ornament. We go to the Tiger Park and I buy a live chicken to feed to the tigers. You can buy a chicken, goat or whole cow that the workers toss out to the tigers.<br />
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Me, Steven and Micah Eating Harbin Ice Cream</div>
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While in Harbin we saw the Ice Festival, Snow Park, Tiger Park, Saint Sophia Russian Orthodox Church (now a museum) and ate the famous Harbin ice cream. We walked the streets and watched a troop of older Chinese ladies doing what looked like Chinese line dancing. They were quite good for performing in such cold weather.<br />
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Small problem - I got busy during this past year and never finished writing this post so it is unfinished and a bit late in making it onto my blog nearly a year late. I think it conveys the spirit of my trip.</div>
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Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-6139685895022821962013-12-07T15:20:00.001-07:002013-12-07T15:20:16.870-07:00Cranberry Pumpkin Pie<span style="background-color: white; font-size: large;">I found a recipe for Cranberry Pumpkin Nut Bread in the holiday Penzey Spice catalogue. I liked it so well I thought it could be adapted for this years pumpkin pie. As much as I like traditional pumpkin pie I now have a new favorite.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-size: large;">Makes one 9 inch deep dish pie.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Ingredients</span></h3>
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<li class="ingredient" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px 0px 1em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="amount" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><span class="value" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">3/4</span> cup granulated sugar</span></span></li>
<li class="ingredient" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px 0px 1em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="amount" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><span class="value" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1</span> teaspoon ground cinnamon</span></span></li>
<li class="ingredient" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px 0px 1em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="amount" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><span class="value" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1/2</span> teaspoon salt</span></span></li>
<li class="ingredient" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px 0px 1em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">1 - 2 teaspoons grated orange rind</span></li>
<li class="ingredient" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px 0px 1em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract</span></li>
<li class="ingredient" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px 0px 1em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="amount" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><span class="value" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">2</span> large eggs</span></span></li>
<li class="ingredient" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px 0px 1em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><span class="amount" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="value" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1</span> can <span class="type" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">(15 oz.) Libby's pumpkin (plain)</span></span></span></li>
<li class="ingredient" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px 0px 1em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">1/2 (6 0z.) can evaporated milk</span></li>
<li class="ingredient" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px 0px 1em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">3/4 cup orange juice</span></li>
<li class="ingredient" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px 0px 1em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">1/2 - 3/4 cup chopped fresh cranberries</span></li>
<li class="ingredient" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px 0px 1em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="amount" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><span class="value" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">1</span> <i style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">unbaked</i> 9-inch (4-cup volume) deep-dish pie shell</span></span></li>
<li class="ingredient" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px 0px 1em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Whipped cream (optional)</span></li>
<li class="ingredient" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px 0px 1em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><h3 style="border: 0px; margin: 0px 0px 1em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
Directions</h3>
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<span style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">MIX</span> sugar, cinnamon, salt,orange rind and vanilla extract in small bowl. Beat eggs in large bowl. Stir in pumpkin and sugar-spice mixture. Gradually stir in evaporated milk and orange juice. Fold in cranberries.<br /><br /><span style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">POUR</span> into pie shell.<br /><br /><span style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">BAKE</span> in preheated 425° F oven for 15 minutes. Reduce temperature to 350° F; bake for 40 to 50 minutes or until knife inserted near center comes out clean. Cool on wire rack for 2 hours. Serve immediately or refrigerate. Top with whipped cream before serving. </div>
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Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0United States34.88593094075317 -106.52343759.36389644075317 -147.8320315 60.407965440753173 -65.2148435tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-57943959952591583352013-09-22T20:11:00.000-06:002018-10-18T18:48:13.327-06:00Two Articles<div style="text-align: center;">
Article I</div>
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Why I Don't Sew for Other People Anymore</div>
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Way back in the 1960's I sewed for other people. I did it because I was a stay at home mom with time on my hands and I liked to sew. I didn't have a large clientele, but the people I sewed for understood the art of fine garments and appreciated good fit and one of a kind designs. I made career suits, gowns for balls and many fun outfits for very appreciative clients. </div>
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Many years later, in the 1990's after retiring from a career in teaching I decided to sew again for others. The world had changed, and no more were there ladies who wanted fine garments. Now they just wanted cute and cheap. Oops, I should have said inexpensive. I did pick up a few clients, and the surprising thing was that most of my clients were the morbidly obese who wanted nice garments like their thinner sisters. One sweet little lady said she used to be my size but when her husband died she just ate her heart out. She had tried a seamstress before, and the results were a disaster. I made her three well fitting dresses that made her very happy. </div>
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Another client was a young high school girl who was as big as a barn. She was in desperate need of a good fitting bra and had no idea that bras could be purchased in such a large size. I am guessing something in the range of 50+ DDDD to J cup size might have helped. And, yes, those bras do exist. Fittings were a major challenge because I never knew where her flesh was going to land. We got through the fittings, and when all was done she had a prom dress and sweet little jacket to match. The expression on her face when she tried it on made the effort worthwhile. I think these very obese women were two of my most appreciative clients.</div>
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Now you would think I would continue sewing for other people but a move to New Mexico from California gave me a different clientele again. This time there were no redeeming aspects in the ladies who came to find out what dressmaking was all about. We would discuss what they wanted, I would quote a price and they would just stammer and gasp and tell me they could buy a dress cheaper. No kidding. Because I am happily retired I just didn't feel like wasting my time on these go nowhere interviews. Nor did I want to see the look of horror on someones face when I quoted a price. Heck, they don't hesitate to pay their plumber or mechanic more than I charge. And that is why I only sew for myself and family, if they catch me in a good mood.</div>
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Article II</div>
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Why I Sew for Myself When I Can Buy a Garment Cheaper (Maybe)</div>
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I have been sewing since I was 3 or 4 years old. That is a long time. Many of those years were spent sewing my own wardrobe. Why I continue to sew for myself can be summed up in three reasons, (1) I like clothes, (2) I like well fitting clothes, (3) I like clothes that I can't afford. It is easy to understand 1 and 3, but 2 is the heart of what fine garments are all about. </div>
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Firstly, I am vertically challenged. I used to be 5'2" or 3". Age has brought me down to 5'1". No sense lamenting the garments that my tall sisters can carry off. Sometimes even 1/4" makes a difference in how something looks. The best I can do to off set this handicap is to stand up straight and walk well.</div>
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Next I will work my way up, starting with my feet and look at why ready made garments just don't work. My feet are just about average, and my toes are fairly even and straight so I can splash on some polish and wear a nice pair of sandals. Ankles are trim and calves are a bit thin but fairly well shaped. Once I get to the knees it all falls apart. My knees are just plain knobby and well, the thighs are definitely not in proportion to the calves. If the calves are a bit thin the thighs are definitely hefty. And to make matters worse I have had varicose veins since I was in high school. The only way a dress works is with a pair of tights or leggings. Ankle length dresses, when they are in fashion are sort of OK. Regular pants are too long and petites are too short. I decided a long time ago that if I have to alter anything I would just make it.</div>
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My over all silhouette is a pear. I can live with that. But when I was younger my upper body was easily two sizes smaller than my hips. Age has helped. The difference is only one size smaller now. I am long from my waist to crotch and short in the torso. Compounding the fitting is a bust measuring 32 D. Shoulders are narrow and sloping with the ball of the shoulder rolling slightly forward. Chest is hollow which disguises the large bust but only in looks not it fit. </div>
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When you sew as many years as I have you get to know your body really well. Now that I know all the reasons why ready made clothes just don't look good on me I can work on making garments that do work. Most of my pattern alterations are in the length except the increase in bust size. I can either draft my own pattern or make the alteration on a commercial pattern. Because I look best in classic lines without to many extraneous things going on I tend to use a pattern for years and vary it ever so slightly.</div>
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I started with my feet so I will end with my head. Thanks to good genes and a good surgeon I continue to look younger than my years. Somehow my hair is still its natural color. To sum up my feet and head are my best features, and what is in between requires careful fitting to compliment the good parts. And that is why I make my own clothes.</div>
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Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5699322081836928173.post-11536370019961210532013-09-22T16:32:00.000-06:002013-09-22T16:32:45.441-06:00My Sister's New T-Shirt WardrobeIn August my sister came to visit and we fine tuned the fit on her patterns for T-shirts. We worked out most of the fitting issue, and I finished her wardrobe after she left for home in Montana. She ended up with a vest, a hoodie and ten new T's.<br />
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<br />Donna Sebastianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15391736165705908339noreply@blogger.com2